The Sun Also Sets

Located at the end of one of the most scenic roads in America, Key West is the end of the line on US Highway 1. Although the distance from Miami is only 150 miles, the drive takes about four hours on the narrow two-lane road. Of course with all the lovely tropical scenery, the slow pace did not bother me one bit.

As soon as I arrived in the city limits, I felt as if I was somewhere completely different. Devoid of most franchises that have infiltrated America, Key West has attempted to maintain its small-town quirkiness, yet still be attractive to tourists worldwide. What other city in America contains more bicycles than cars, numerous locals walking barefoot, and 2,000 roosters wandering the streets?

With only 40,000 inhabitants, Key West is a tiny 2 x 4 mile island, with most locations easily reached by foot. I quickly discovered its famous laid back culture, noticing I was the only guy in blue jeans. I did not see a single tie during my entire visit.

My first touristy thing to do was to be photographed at the famous Southernmost Point Buoy. Walking around, I noticed most buildings claim to be ‘southernmost’ in Key West. There is the Southernmost Hotel, the Southernmost House, Southernmost Real Estate Agency, Southernmost Obese Tourist, etc.

While sipping mojitos in the La Te Da Bar on Duval Street, I quickly made friends with Katherine and Walter, a couple of locals. When I told them I was going on a personal pub crawl that evening, they volunteered to be my official escorts.

Shunning the corporate world, Katherine moved to Key West with her son ten years ago. Walter told me he escaped the prejudices of his small Midwestern upbringing, wishing to reside in a ‘live and let live’ environment. Neither of them owns a car.

Katherine then told me that dating isn’t easy for a single lady on this island, because of the large gay population. (not that there is anything wrong with that)

It seems that most of the locals I met were running away from something: a bad divorce, overbearing parents, a mundane career, etc. More than one local tried to convince me to ‘quit my damn government job’ and move to Key West.

Although Katherine and Walter rolled their eyes at me when I told them I was scheduled to attend the Key West Ghost Tour, they both followed me along. We were entertained by our lively guide who told us tales of the eccentric Dr. Charles Tanzler, a man who loved his wife so much he continued to have sex with her corpse nine years after her death. I was disturbed by the story of Robert the Doll, a macabre children’s toy that became the inspiration for Chucky in the Child’s Play movies.

Being a fan of Hemingway since college, we made the pilgrimage to the famous Hemingway House, the most popular place on the island. Hemingway lived in Key West from 1927-1937, and it is estimated that he wrote about 70% of his literary output while living there.

Another favorite pastime of Key West residents which I found quite endearing, is drinking. We drank in Captain Tony’s, an establishment whose ceilings are lined with underwear. My favorite bar, the Green Parrot, is the official hangout of the locals. I even waved to my envious friends back in Alabama via webcam from the Green Parrot.

Pretty much anything goes in Key West, including clothing. Having never heard of a ‘clothing optional bar’, I was taken to the Garden of Eden, a lounge on the top floor of the Bull & Whistle, where a dancing topless woman on crutches greeted us. There I discovered first-hand the only way you can get kicked out of a bar in Key West is to take photographs of the nude patrons.

The highlight of my visit was Mallory Square. Each evening thousands gather to watch the most glorious sunset in America. Awaiting the day’s end, we were entertained by a carnival-like atmosphere; a man juggling knives, an artist walking on glass, a tightrope walker, etc. Once the sun set, great applause arose from the crowd.

The only mistake in my Key West adventure was staying for just two nights. I’d love to go back - explore the entire city by foot, mingle more with the locals, and to experience island life once again. I must say I have never been to a friendlier place. Thank you Katherine and Walter.

As I drove away from my hotel Friday morning, fittingly Moon River was playing on the Sirius Radio. With mist in my eyes, I told myself: ‘Key West, I will return.’